The Season of Sparkle
September in Chicago traditionally ushers in crisp breezes and vivid foliage, but inside the stately salerooms of Leslie Hindman Auctioneers, the month holds a different kind of magic. It is synonymous with the glimmer of diamonds, rare signed jewels, and the electric hum of competitive bidding. The buzz in the air isn't just the changing of seasons—it’s the palpable excitement of the jewelry world coming together for two extraordinary auctions, each a separate yet interconnected experience that showcases the artistry and beauty of fine jewelry.
This year, the house amplifies that energy with two closely sequenced sales—an estate-focused evening on Wednesday, September 16th, followed by a two-day Important Jewelry Auction beginning at noon on the 17th and concluding the morning of the 18th. The chronology feels almost cinematic: the first event acting as a glittering prologue, drawn from the refined collection of Rita Dee Hassenfeld, followed by a crescendo of 1,293 lots ranging from Art Deco masterpieces to avant-garde contemporary statements. Together, these auctions will set the stage for a celebration of beauty, craftsmanship, and history that will resonate across generations.
A Legacy of Gavel-Drop Drama
Leslie Hindman Auctioneers was founded in 1982 with a singular goal: to establish itself as the Midwestern epicenter for art and antiques. Over the decades, the jewelry department has evolved into a global magnet for dealers, museum curators, and private collectors, who approach each catalog like seasoned horologists studying the precise movements of a tourbillon. Every lot is scrutinized, every bid scrutinized even further. This specialized, almost sacred relationship with jewelry is one that Leslie Hindman Auctioneers has nurtured with care and dedication. As the firm enters its fourth decade of auctions, it continues to prove its resilience in the ever-evolving market.
The decision to cluster two fine jewelry auctions within seventy-two hours is not just a display of logistical prowess—it is a statement of confidence. It speaks volumes about the auction house's trust in the market’s strength and its ability to command attention from its audience. The compressed timetable is a gift to connoisseurs who jet between Geneva, Hong Kong, and New York, offering them a seamless experience that requires fewer flights and a quicker feedback loop on price trends. The auction format also signals to consignors that Leslie Hindman believes in its ability to absorb and celebrate an effulgent inventory without overwhelming its bidders. The excitement builds, the energy never wanes, and bidders’ paddles remain raised throughout, from one lot to the next.
Why “Back-to-Back” Matters
The decision to host these back-to-back auctions on consecutive days is far more than a logistical maneuver—it shapes bidder psychology in profound ways. In the auction world, momentum is everything. When auctions are spread over several days or weeks, bidders can lose focus, second-guess themselves, and walk away with fewer acquisitions. But when auctions are closely sequenced, there is a distinct sense of urgency. Momentum builds from one sale to the next, and paddles remain in the air. Absentee limits recalibrate in real-time, allowing for spontaneous decisions and pushing buyers to engage in the kind of heady, fast-paced bidding that makes fine jewelry auctions so exciting.
For collectors accustomed to the whirlwind nature of global auctions, a compressed timetable also minimizes downtime. The convenience of attending multiple auctions in quick succession allows collectors to dive into the thick of the action without the need for endless travel or long waits. This efficient approach brings an immediacy to the experience, one that is perfectly in tune with the ever-changing demands of modern buyers. At the same time, it offers a refreshing challenge to the seasoned collector, who must refine their strategies on the fly, balancing impulse with careful deliberation.
A New Era for Rita Dee Hassenfeld’s Collection
One of the most captivating aspects of the September auctions is the tribute to Rita Dee Hassenfeld, a woman whose life journey is as captivating as the jewels she collected. From ballerina to philanthropist, Mrs. Hassenfeld’s path was one of elegance and grace, a narrative beautifully reflected in the jewels she chose to surround herself with. Her collection, to be sold during Wednesday evening's estate sale, is a reflection of her unique perspective as both a collector and an aesthete. Her jewels carry an unmistakable aura, each piece chosen not only for its craftsmanship but for its personal significance.
For collectors, this collection is more than just a series of beautiful objects—it is a portal into the life of a woman who viewed her jewels not just as adornments, but as expressions of her beliefs and experiences. The catalog's narrative voice echoes this sentiment, bringing her collection to life in a way that no mere list of lot numbers can do. Mrs. Hassenfeld’s legacy is woven into the fabric of each piece, elevating them from mere collectibles to historical treasures.
Provenance, Pedigree, and the Power of Story
In the world of fine jewelry, provenance plays a crucial role in the value of a piece. The provenance of a piece often carries more weight than its material worth. When a lot lists Rita Dee Hassenfeld as its former custodian, it invites bidders to take ownership not just of the object but of its narrative. Collectors acquire more than a rare jewel—they inherit a fragment of social history, an intangible aura that adds immeasurable value to the item. This is the power of narrative capital, an intangible element that has become increasingly important as new generations of buyers enter the collecting fold.
In the secondary market, it is often the story behind a piece that drives its price beyond the realm of mere gemological value. Estate pieces, in particular, carry with them the echoes of past owners, each jewel a token of personal expression and familial legacy. For collectors seeking to acquire more than just an object of beauty, the provenance of a piece is an essential consideration. When a jewel bears the mark of an esteemed collector like Mrs. Hassenfeld, its value becomes immeasurably enriched.
Digital Bidding in an Analog World
Not every bidder has the luxury of being able to attend auctions in person. That’s why Leslie Hindman Auctioneers has partnered with LHLive and Bidsquare to offer an innovative, fully integrated digital experience that brings the auction directly to the bidder’s screen. Remote collectors in Seoul or São Paulo can engage in the action as assertively as those seated in the front row. The days of being physically present to participate in competitive bidding are long gone. Now, collectors around the world can chase after a David Webb tiger’s-eye ring or an Art Deco emerald necklace from the comfort of their own homes.
The shift to digital bidding has democratized access to these high-profile auctions, giving global collectors the ability to join in real-time, regardless of their location. Remote bidding doesn’t dilute the excitement or the prestige of the event—it enhances it, enabling collectors from all corners of the world to participate without geographical barriers. Whether attending in person or bidding from across the globe, the sense of anticipation and the rush of a successful bid remains unchanged..
Crafting a Game Plan
Veteran bidders know the importance of setting hard limits before the first lot crosses the block. But in a multi-session event like this, limits evolve. What begins as a conservative bid on the first night can quickly transform into a high-stakes chase for an under-the-radar lot later on. That’s the beauty of these auctions: they keep you guessing. Savvy buyers earmark "stretch" funds for sleeper lots—pieces that may not initially catch the eye but prove to be a steal when bidding picks up momentum. The thrill of securing such a lot adds an extra layer of excitement to an already exhilarating event.
As the final bid registers on Wednesday evening, the auction will feel like a beginning rather than an end. With Thursday’s noon session ushering in the start of 1,293 new lots, the energy will remain high, the anticipation palpable. From vintage coral necklaces to Slovakian emerald swag, the next chapter promises to be just as exciting as the first. Stay tuned for Part 2, where the luminescent trove that is the Rita Dee Hassenfeld Collection will be explored in greater
The Rita Dee Hassenfeld Collection: Balletic Grace in Gemstone Form
Curatorial Cohesion amid Eclecticism
In the world of great estates, few adhere strictly to a single aesthetic doctrine. More often, they chart an autobiographical arc that transcends specific periods or design movements, offering a snapshot of a collector’s personality, passions, and pursuits. The Rita Dee Hassenfeld Collection, however, brings forth a narrative that is both remarkably cohesive and beautifully eclectic. The jewels in this remarkable estate, each uniquely telling its own story, are united by a common thread: a celebration of grace, energy, and vitality. These are pieces that dance on the body, that catch the light and reflect the exuberant zest for life that Mrs. Hassenfeld nurtured in both her adagio practice as a ballerina and her philanthropic endeavors.
The collection is not defined by a singular era but by an ethos—one that is deeply entwined with movement, light, and the joy of living. In the jewelry world, it is easy to get lost in the minutae of style periods, but Hassenfeld’s jewels exist as a kind of living, breathing entity, perfectly at home in multiple contexts. Her pieces do not simply serve as adornments—they function as expressions of the wearer’s spirit. Whether in the form of an aquamarine ring that evokes the clarity of the sea or a pair of amethyst earrings that capture the fleeting twilight hours, the collection weaves a tapestry of light and form that beckons the viewer to not only admire but to experience.
The interplay between color, texture, and history in the collection sets it apart from others. Each piece tells a story—one that blends whimsy with sophistication, elegance with rebellion, and classic design with modern sensibility. The fusion of such diverse elements in a single collection is a testament to the keen eye and discerning taste of Mrs. Hassenfeld. She selected jewels not just for their monetary value, but for their emotional resonance, their ability to evoke feelings, and their capacity to reflect the complexity of her own life journey.
Aquamarine Whimsy: Lots 37 & 38
Among the many pieces in the collection, two aquamarine rings stand out—Lot 37 and Lot 38. Lot 37 commands immediate attention with its striking design, a fully carved aquamarine ring whose shank, gallery, and crown are sculpted from a single crystal. The water-like quality of the aquamarine is mirrored by the diamonds that rim the bezel, resembling frothy surf that licks the shore. The seamless blending of the crystal and diamond accentuates the natural beauty of the stone while ensuring that the wearer remains the focal point. The fixed US 6½ size makes the ring all the more exclusive, an heirloom waiting to be passed down through generations.
In contrast, Lot 38 echoes the tranquil hues of aquamarine, though with a distinctly different approach. This ring is set in Victorian mountings, where Old Mine cuts twinkle around the pastel blue pools of aquamarine. The juxtaposition of the vintage setting with the serene blue stones highlights the versatility of aquamarine and its ability to shift in character based on the craftsmanship surrounding it. Together, these pieces epitomize how a single mineral can morph from a stoic beryl into a buoyant statement of personal style, all with the touch of a skilled artisan.
David Webb’s Roaring Seventies: Lot 40
Among the collection’s many treasures, Lot 40—a 18-karat tiger’s-eye ring—encapsulates the exuberance of the 1970s. David Webb, renowned for his wild, animal-inspired designs, channels a sense of natural grandeur in this piece. The ring’s tiger’s-eye, with its striking chatoyancy, is accented by bands of obsidian black that emphasize the stone’s natural beauty, creating an optical effect that is as mesmerizing as it is bold. This piece brings together the glamour of Studio 54 with the primal elegance of ancient talismanic lore, making it a perfect representation of the cultural and aesthetic sensibilities of the 1970s. Webb’s penchant for mixing the animal world with avant-garde design takes on a new dimension here, as the stone's surface seems to shimmer with an energy that feels alive, ready to pounce.
Amethyst Garlands and Edwardian Reverie: Lot 243
Few eras rival the Edwardian period in terms of its mastery of negative space and delicate detail, and Lot 243—an amethyst cabochon pendant—stands as a testament to that craftsmanship. The piece, suspended within a platinum-topped gold frame of ribboned scrolls and knife-edge symmetry, evokes a sense of movement and fluidity that is quintessentially Edwardian. The deep violet hue of the amethyst is contrasted by the lustrous glow of the pearl that rests at its center, a soft light that glows like moonrise over a lavender field. The romanticism of this design captures the spirit of the Edwardian era, where beauty was not just about what was seen, but about the emotional resonance a piece could evoke. This pendant carries with it the timeless elegance of a bygone era, yet its appeal is as relevant today as it was a century ago.
Rarified Rebel: Nicholas Varney’s Abstract Earrings (Lot 196)
Nicholas Varney’s design language is known for its bold defiance of symmetry, and his abstract earrings in Lot 196 are no exception. Here, rubies twist and pivot, briolette sapphires turn upwards like exclamation points, and diamonds zigzag across textured gold. The design feels like a wearable sculpture, a piece that could easily be displayed in a modern art gallery, yet it retains the intimacy and personal nature of fine jewelry. These earrings, which push the boundaries of form and expectation, are a perfect example of how jewelry can transcend the traditional boundaries of ornamentation to become a statement of individuality and creative freedom. With their energetic design and fearless use of color and texture, they invite the wearer to express their own unique story.
The Allure of Signed Masterpieces
For many collectors, signatures are the ultimate passport to an elite microcosm where craftsmanship is both the means and the end. The presence of renowned names like Cartier, Belperron, and Seaman Schepps elevates any collection, transforming it from a collection of beautiful objects into an esteemed archive of design history. Each signature represents not just the artistic prowess of the designer but the storied legacy of the house that bears its name. For Mrs. Hassenfeld, the inclusion of these signed masterpieces is a testament to her discerning eye, her ability to spot quality, and her deep appreciation for craftsmanship that transcends trends.
The presence of such pieces inside one estate elevates the sale into something more than just a financial event—it becomes a scholarly occasion. Curators, dealers, and serious collectors understand the weight of acquiring signed pieces, not just as investments but as pieces of cultural history. These signed jewels, each with its own provenance, have stories to tell that resonate far beyond their carat weight or market value. As the auction approaches, these masterpieces will undoubtedly attract attention from every corner of the art and jewelry world, where their historical significance and artistic beauty will be celebrated by a new generation of collectors.
Bidding Psychology for Estate Sales
Single-owner collections like the Rita Dee Hassenfeld Collection often foster a bidding psychology that goes beyond mere acquisition. In many ways, buyers in these sales are not just bidding for physical objects—they are bidding for fragments of the owner’s identity. There is something deeply personal about estate sales, particularly when the collector’s life is as rich and colorful as Hassenfeld’s. Her life, both as a ballerina and a philanthropist, adds layers of emotional depth to each piece in the collection. For bidders, acquiring such a piece is about more than ownership—it is about stewardship, about becoming part of a larger narrative.
In the world of estate auctions, the prudent bidder comes prepared, with clear targets in mind. But there is always room for surprise. As the catalog essays circulate and the bidding heats up, sleeper lots—those under-appreciated pieces with hidden value—often emerge as the stars of the sale. It’s in these moments, when a piece exceeds its estimate or takes on a life of its own in the auction room, that the true magic of an estate sale happens. For those who are in tune with the rhythm of the auction, the thrill of discovery is as important as the final bid.
Curtain Call
As the evening gavel falls on September 16th, the victors will leave with velvet boxes and provenance letters in hand, knowing they’ve acquired more than just beautiful jewelry—they’ve become part of a legacy. Yet even those who don’t win will have gained invaluable insights into price patterns, bidder psychology, and the shifting tides of the market. These lessons will prove invaluable when the Important Jewelry Auction opens on Thursday, where new treasures, like vintage coral necklaces and Art Deco onyx earrings, will await fresh applause. Part 3 will plunge headlong into this next phase of the auction, where the energy will remain electric and the stakes even higher.
Important Jewelry Auction, Day One: From Coral Swags to Cleopatra Cameos
Opening Fanfare: Lot 4’s Slovakian Splendor
The first lot of the Important Jewelry Auction sets a remarkable tone for the entire event, with Lot 4 making a stunning entrance. This 17-inch Slovakian necklace, a masterpiece embroidered in pearls, rubies, and emeralds, is more than just a jewel—it is a symphony of craftsmanship and versatility. Eight gemstone swags drape elegantly across the décolletage, their arrangement reminiscent of baroque festoons, adding a touch of old-world glamour. Yet, in an ingenious twist, the necklace’s clasps allow the piece to bifurcate, transforming it into two separate bracelets. This fusion of heritage and modernity gives the piece an almost surreal quality, allowing the wearer to choose between a grand statement necklace or a pair of delicate bracelets, thus offering a glimpse into a world where tradition meets contemporary style.
The juxtaposition of the two distinct forms—the grand necklace and the modular bracelets—speaks volumes about the flexibility of fine jewelry. It challenges the notion that a single piece must belong to a certain time or tradition. Instead, it celebrates the dynamic nature of design, emphasizing adaptability in a world where jewelry is no longer just about adornment but about self-expression. For those with an eye for history and innovation, Lot 4 offers a dual narrative: one steeped in classic elegance, the other shaped by the needs of modern collectors.
What sets this piece apart is the balance it strikes between opulence and practicality, heritage and modern sensibility. This necklace, while rooted in Slovakian tradition, showcases a level of creativity that transcends cultural boundaries, offering a piece that can seamlessly integrate into any collection. Whether a connoisseur of fine European jewelry or a newcomer to the world of high-end auctions, Lot 4 has something for everyone—its beauty lies not just in its craftsmanship, but in its ability to connect with diverse audiences and tastes.
Onyx Geometry Finds Its Muse: Lot 600
As the auction moves forward, Lot 600—an exquisite pair of Art Deco earrings—captures the era’s love affair with chiaroscuro, the dramatic contrast between light and shadow. The earrings, combining jet-black onyx with glinting seed pearls, perfectly encapsulate the geometric sophistication that Art Deco designers relished. Their elongated, angular silhouette flatters the jawline and evokes images of Gatsby soirées and jazz-age optimism. These earrings are not merely accessories but rather statements of style, seamlessly blending classic design elements with the bold, liberated spirit of the 1920s.
The earrings also reflect a masterful understanding of geometry and form, principles that were at the heart of Art Deco design. This focus on clean, angular shapes and a streamlined aesthetic was a direct response to the ornate excesses of previous periods. The earrings, in their simplicity, become a canvas for the light that strikes them, creating an interplay of shadows and reflections. They are timeless in their appeal, offering a sense of both modernity and nostalgia—a perfect marriage of the past and the future, much like the Art Deco movement itself.
Coral Among the Clouds: Lot 845
The coral necklace offered as Lot 845 is nothing short of a visual feast, embodying the delicate balance between nature and artifice. Coral beads, in their undulating form, create a bib-like structure that seems to breathe life into the piece, each bead reminiscent of a captured sunrise. The use of red coral, a material both vibrant and organic, gives the piece an undeniable energy, while the movement of the beads ensures that the necklace remains dynamic. Dangles cascade from the necklace, adding an element of kinetic verve, so the piece never sits still. It is perfect for collectors who believe that jewelry should not merely cling to the body but should engage with the wearer’s movement, becoming an extension of their personality.
Coral has long been revered for its rich color and organic texture, and its use here elevates the necklace from a mere ornament to a work of art. The necklace’s fluidity and liveliness invite the wearer to move, dance, and live fully. The design speaks to a sense of freedom, of lightness and joy, making it an ideal accessory for those who want to make a statement without sacrificing elegance. The use of coral here transcends mere fashion; it reflects a deep appreciation for the natural world and the stories that can be told through the manipulation of organic materials.
For collectors, Lot 845 offers a glimpse into the timeless beauty of coral jewelry, as well as its evolving place in the world of fine design. Coral is not just a material—it is a symbol of nature’s resilience and beauty, a piece of the earth turned into something wearable, something meaningful. As an investment, it is both a tangible asset and a piece of history, linking the collector to a tradition that spans centuries.
Mysterious Labradorite: Lot 988
Lot 988 introduces an element of mystery into the auction with a ring featuring a cameo of Cleopatra, carved into the surface of storm-gray feldspar. The cameo tradition, which has existed for thousands of years, takes on a new dimension in this piece, as the labradorescence of the feldspar brings a unique complexity to the design. As light refracts across its surface, tones of peacock blue and aurora green appear, evoking the shifting colors of the Nile at twilight. This effect imbues the cameo with a sense of mystique, transforming Cleopatra’s image from a historical figure into something almost ethereal, a vision of power and grace that transcends time.
The use of labradorite in this piece adds a layer of depth to the traditional cameo, challenging the viewer to reconsider the material’s role in high-end jewelry. Labradorite’s distinctive play of color, often referred to as its “flame,” is a perfect medium for capturing the multifaceted persona of Cleopatra herself. It is a stone that symbolizes transformation, making it a fitting material for a piece that seeks to represent one of history’s most enigmatic figures. The combination of ancient symbolism with contemporary design creates a bridge between the past and the present, inviting the wearer to connect with the timeless allure of Cleopatra while simultaneously embracing the forward-thinking nature of modern craftsmanship.
Serpentine Duet: Lot 1117
Lot 1117, a pair of Victorian-era serpent rings, is a testament to the fascination with eternity that characterized the era. The two entwined serpents, one holding a pearl and the other an opal, are crowned with sapphire or emerald eyes, symbolizing renewal, transformation, and wisdom. The serpentine motif, which has long been associated with the concept of immortality and rebirth, takes on new meaning in this design. The two snakes, locked in a never-ending embrace, represent the cyclical nature of life and the eternal bond between opposing forces.
Turquoise Talisman: Lot 1150
Lot 1150 marries the vibrant color of desert-sky turquoise with a sense of bohemian chic that is both earthy and sophisticated. Twelve cabochons of turquoise nestle inside hammered 14-karat bezels, their caramel matrix resembling fossilized lightning. The stone’s natural imperfections only enhance its beauty, creating a piece that feels as much a part of the earth as it does of the collector’s body. Over time, the patina of the turquoise has deepened, giving the piece a tonal variety that speaks to the aging process and the beauty of imperfection.
Turquoise, long revered for its protective properties, has a mystique that resonates with collectors seeking a talismanic piece. The use of hammered gold adds a bohemian touch, evoking the spirit of the American Southwest and the free-spirited energy of the 1960s and 1970s. The cabochons, with their web-like patterns, appear to capture a moment in time, a snapshot of natural history frozen in a piece of wearable art.
This necklace is not just a piece of jewelry—it is a conversation with the earth itself, a connection to the past, and an embrace of the present. The contrast between the cool, calm turquoise and the warm, earthy gold creates a dynamic visual effect, offering a piece that is both timeless and contemporary.
Day-One Bidding Cadence
As the auction gets underway, the first session often sets the tone for what will follow. Early bidding can be slow as attendees take a moment to "test the water," gauging the energy of the room and the pace of the bidding. However, this initial calm is often shattered as lots with low reserves attract enthusiastic bidding wars that quickly recalibrate the perceived value of certain pieces. Savvy collectors are adept at monitoring these shifts, watching for signs of under-bidding or incremental bids that signal potential bargains.
A particularly astute strategy for those participating remotely is to monitor the live-streaming chat for behavioral cues. Sudden jumps in bids or hesitancy in incremental bidding can provide valuable insights into rival bidders’ limits, allowing players to adjust their tactics accordingly. The opening day is a delicate dance of observation, calculation, and instinct—where every bidder must remain alert to shifts in momentum and opportunity.
Condition Reports as Competitive Edge
Leslie Hindman Auctioneers offers a wealth of information for its bidders, including high-definition photographs and internal XRF analyses to ensure complete transparency regarding the quality and condition of each lot. However, condition reports often remain an underutilized goldmine of information. Small details, such as minute enamel nicks or partial hallmarks, can swing the value of a piece significantly. Therefore, diligent bidders are encouraged to request clarifications early in the process, rather than waiting until the eleventh hour, when time may be running out.
In a competitive auction environment, knowledge is power. Condition reports allow bidders to make informed decisions, ensuring that they are not caught off guard by any hidden imperfections or flaws. By leveraging these reports, bidders can position themselves strategically, maximizing their chances of securing a piece at the right price.
Intermission Reflection
As the final lot closes on Thursday evening, a wealth of data will be available to reflect on. Which designers garnered the highest premiums? Did colored stones outperform white diamonds? Were Neo-Victorian pieces more successful than Art Deco items? Part 4 of the auction series will take a deep dive into these trends, analyzing the bidding patterns and highlighting unsold lots that are poised for redemption in the upcoming sessions. As the auction moves into its second phase, the excitement will only grow, and the final results will offer valuable insights into the future of the fine jewelry market.
Important Jewelry Auction, Day Two: Strategy, Afterglow, and Market Ripples
The Second-Day Phenomenon
While the first day of the Important Jewelry Auction establishes the early benchmarks and sets the tone for the bidding to come, it is day two that often explores the margins—the overlooked opportunities and hidden treasures that emerge when bidders refocus their strategies. The first day is typically filled with intense competition, where the most coveted lots often achieve their anticipated hammer prices. But it is on day two where the auction’s true dynamics unfold, revealing the intricate psychology behind the bidding process and the ebb and flow of interest from bidders.
On day two, the early skirmishes have settled, and a new wave of buyers, some perhaps fresh off the excitement of the previous day, begin to strategize for the remaining lots. As under-bidders from the first day redirect their budgets or attempt to reallocate their funds, previously overlooked lots can achieve breakout pricing, surprising both buyers and auction house specialists. The excitement of the first day has built momentum, and now it’s a race against time to acquire pieces that may have slipped under the radar earlier. The results from the first day are fresh in everyone’s minds, and the competition intensifies, especially for those lots that may not have garnered as much attention initially..
Key Friday Morning Lots
As the auction progresses into its second day, a few lots stand out as prime examples of the high caliber of items still up for bid. Among these, Lot 1293, a Renaissance-revival diamond girdle chain, is the hypothetical final lot that closes the auction with all the glamour and drama befitting a show-stopping piece. The girdle chain, glittering like liquid constellations, is destined for a red-carpet reinvention. It evokes the opulence and grandeur of a bygone era, but its undeniable modernity means it could easily find its place on the neck of a Hollywood starlet or at the center of a contemporary haute couture collection. The versatility of this piece, with its breathtaking diamonds and revivalist design, places it at the crossroads of history and modern fashion, an intersection where timeless beauty is both admired and celebrated.
Next, Lot 1201 presents a rare Oscar Heyman Brothers star-ruby and diamond brooch that stands as a testament to the craftsmanship of one of the most revered jewelry houses in America. The brooch, with its hematitic asterism fanning across six equidistant rays, draws immediate attention. The star-ruby, with its ethereal glow and unique effect, takes center stage, while the surrounding diamonds provide just the right balance of sparkle to complement the stone’s otherworldly radiance. This piece is a rare find, combining the whimsy of the star-shaped ruby with the precision of diamond accents, making it a collectible piece that speaks to both gemological enthusiasts and those simply seeking a statement piece of jewelry.
Lot 1175 introduces the Hermes Chaine d’Ancre bracelet, an oversized link design that draws inspiration from the strength and beauty of maritime fortitude. With its smooth, sleek design, this piece is a perfect balance of luxury and masculinity, evoking the ruggedness of the sea while maintaining the refinement associated with the Hermes brand. This bracelet, while rooted in nautical imagery, is smoothed for haute couture wrists, offering a new interpretation of the brand’s signature style that is both modern and timeless. It speaks to the versatility of the brand and its ability to capture the essence of luxury while staying grounded in a deep connection to craftsmanship and heritage.
Reading the Price Thermometer
The second day of the auction offers a unique opportunity for analysts and collectors alike to evaluate the overall state of the jewelry market. Analysts dissect hammer results to gauge larger currents, looking for trends that may offer insight into where the market is heading. For instance, one of the key questions heading into the auction is whether fancy-color diamonds, which set new records in the previous year, will maintain their hold on the market. These diamonds, known for their rarity and unique beauty, have captured the attention of collectors and investors alike, and their performance at the auction could offer important clues about the future of the fancy-color diamond market.
Similarly, collectors are keen to see whether signed yellow gold pieces will outperform platinum amid gold’s commodity surge. As the price of gold continues to climb, it’s possible that collectors may shift their preferences towards pieces made from yellow gold, a material that has long been associated with both luxury and timelessness. Conversely, platinum, which has traditionally been viewed as the more prestigious metal, may see a decline in demand as buyers look to gold as a more affordable alternative. The auction results will provide valuable insight into how market forces are affecting the pricing and desirability of different materials and designs.
Leslie Hindman Auctioneers provides granular reporting that allows analysts to engage with these trends on a deeper level. The auction house’s detailed reports offer immediate insight into which categories are performing well, which designers are commanding premiums, and whether certain types of jewelry—like colored gemstones or vintage pieces—are gaining traction. This level of transparency is crucial for understanding the direction of the jewelry market and for making informed decisions about future acquisitions.
Care, Insurance, and Future Consignment
Winning a jewel at auction is only the beginning of the journey; ownership comes with its own responsibilities. Once a collector has acquired a piece of fine jewelry, there are immediate tasks that must be taken care of. First and foremost is independent appraisal for insurance purposes. Ensuring that the newly acquired piece is accurately valued is essential, as it provides peace of mind should the jewelry ever need to be replaced or restored. Additionally, archival photography is crucial, capturing the piece in its pristine condition for future reference. A preventive inspection by a master bench jeweler may also be necessary, ensuring that the piece is in optimal condition and that no potential issues—whether related to wear, structural integrity, or stone settings—go unnoticed.
For consignors who are contemplating future sales, the auction results from the Important Jewelry Auction provide valuable insight into what types of pieces performed well and which categories saw the highest level of competition. This information is invaluable when timing a liquidation or planning an estate sale. The auction house’s detailed reports allow consignors to analyze which motifs and materials captured the most attention, enabling them to tailor their future consignments to meet market demand. This strategic approach ensures that sellers can maximize the value of their pieces and engage with the market at the most opportune moment.
Market Echoes Beyond Chicago
While September’s back-to-back auctions are undeniably significant within the context of the Chicago market, their impact ripples out far beyond the city’s borders. The results from these auctions will inevitably influence how European auction houses recalibrate their estimates for similar pieces, as well as how Asian collectors—who have become increasingly influential in the global market—pivot toward underrepresented categories like Victorian micromosaic jewelry. In this way, Leslie Hindman’s careful scheduling of back-to-back auctions acts as a catalyst for a broader global conversation, shaping the trajectory of jewelry market trends across continents.
As the global jewelry market continues to evolve, auctions like those held by Leslie Hindman Auctioneers serve as a touchstone for collectors, dealers, and curators alike. By offering a diverse selection of high-quality pieces and maintaining a commitment to transparency and excellence, Leslie Hindman ensures that its influence extends far beyond Chicago’s salerooms. The auction house’s ability to serve as a global barometer for the jewelry market strengthens its position as a leader in the industry, ensuring that it remains at the forefront of emerging trends and new developments.
Closing Thoughts
As the final lot of the Important Jewelry Auction finds its steward and the saleroom lights dim, the reverberations of the event continue to linger. Bidders leave with velvet pouches and fresh anecdotes, but the true impact of the auction is not just in the physical objects that change hands. The auction reaffirms a timeless covenant—the belief that beauty, history, and human aspiration can coalesce in a single moment of raised paddles, crystalline anticipation, and the sonorous echo of a wooden gavel sealing destiny.
In the end, a fine jewelry auction is not just about acquiring precious objects—it is about sharing in the experience, the history, and the stories that each piece brings with it. It is an event that brings together a community of passionate collectors, where the pursuit of beauty becomes a shared journey that transcends time and place. For those fortunate enough to be a part of it, the echoes of the auction will continue to reverberate long after the gavel falls.